Two clips on the front of the horseshoes

Posted on April 23, 2012 by

Q: I have noticed that my friend’s horse has one toe clip on his front shoes, but my farrier puts two clips on the front shoes of my horse. Is there a reason for the difference or is it just personal preference by the farrier?

Rebekah, Bay of Plenty

A: Hi Rebekah. It might be best to ask your farrier. But I suspect there is both, as per your question, a reason and a personal preference!

The personal preference element could be based on what your farrier thinks is best for your horse and also what they believe to be a better style of shoeing. Farriery is not an exact science – we all have our own opinions on what works well and how to achieve optimal results for the horse. Some practices are in contrast to others but both can sometimes give equally positive results. There isn’t always a clear cut right and wrong approach.

Having said that, more farriers are using side clipped shoes on the front feet (with two clips). There’s a few reasons for this including to help break-over, in an attempt to improve performance and to help rectify some of the damage that owners are doing to the hoof angles by leaving the feet too long between farrier appointments. This in particular will allow the toe to grow long, the heels to crush under the excessive loading and potentially the foot to begin to collapse.

Fitting the shoes with double side clips in front can allow the farrier to drop the shoe under the toe and in theory, bring the angles of the foot back in check – to potentially achieve some of the things we’ve discussed above.

Farriers who are committed to shoeing horses with a single toe clip on the front feet might suggest that they get very good results with single clips and some argue fitting the shoes under the toes of the front feet can weaken or damage parts of the hoof wall.

For horse owners, having a horse which is sound and performing well is hugely important. Having a good relationship and trust in your farrier should go hand in hand with the long term comfort of your horse regardless of the style of shoeing or nuances. If it’s working for you then don’t change it but if you show a carefully worded interest in the shoeing with your farrier then it could be a good opportunity to further your knowledge.

David Hankin Dip.WCF

This question and answer first appeared in NZ Horse & Pony magazine, November 2011

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Will the feet on a rescue horse ever recover?

Posted on April 21, 2012 by

Q: I have recently adopted a rescue horse that had been neglected quite badly. His feet and teeth were in a very bad way, and he is very underweight. I have wormed him and had my farrier and dentist out to him, but I am wondering about his long-term recovery. Will feet that have been allowed to grow very long and split badly ever fully recover? He is on good pasture and hay now, and I am feeding him soaked sugar beet and Gumnuts twice a day, but after two months he is slow to put on weight. Do you have any suggestions about his care and feeding regime?

Shelley, via email

A: Hi Shelley, my initial advice if you haven’t done so already, is to ask for a consultation from a vet – an equine specialist preferably if one is available locally. The vet might be able to advise whether there’s been any permanent damage to the vital organs during the period of malnourishment and the likelihood of the horse making a recovery in relation to the overall health and condition.

Presuming that the prognosis is positive in that respect, the potential for improvement to the condition and quality of the hooves is great. Farriers can often make impressive changes when given the opportunity to do what we need to do with a horse who has been neglected.

The length of the hooves could be addressed fairly quickly – in extreme cases, 2-3 trimming appointments at the most should have this in check.

Your overall and ongoing care of the horse will be important to maximising the improvements to the hooves. If the overall wellbeing improves, the diet is appropriate and the horse is doing better, the benefits the horse gains from any work the farrier does will increase too as a result.

Hooves are constantly growing so any damaged or weak hooves can in theory be replaced by stronger and healthier horn. Many of the superficial splits and cracks might grow out and be gone over the coming twelve months or so providing you stick to a successful treatment plan – one exception being any cracks that have been caused by damage to the coronary band (where the new horn grows from).

I hope you start to see some improvements. The commitment of time and money for these horses can be huge. Using a variety of specialists should be the way to go – vet, farrier, dentist, nutritionalist etc all working together can give good results.

David Hankin Dip.WCF

This question and answer first appeared in NZ Horse & Pony magazine, December 2011

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Over-reaching

Posted on April 5, 2012 by

Q: My horse is a chronic over-reacher, and he quite often injures himself. I turn him out in bell boots, but these tend to rub. What can you suggest?

Barbara, Rotorua

A: Hi Barbara. Over-reaching can be a problem and if he’s doing it in the paddock then that’s frustrating too.

Hopefully, there’s a solution to the problem. Firstly, I’d question if there’s anything in the paddock itself that’s contributing to him overreaching.  For example, a paddock that’s muddy or undulating might cause his feet to get slowed down and then interfere with his legs. Think about yourself trying to run in heavy mud or very unlevel surfaces. Chances are, you’re going to knock yourself or maybe even go completely splat! If you think this might be the case for your horse then moving him to a flatter or drier paddock should help prove you right or wrong pretty soon.

Under saddle, we’d usually associate over-reaching with things like fitness (or lack of), a horse carrying too much weight, or a green/young horse amongst other things. Most of these things become less of an issue in the paddock as we’d expect a horse to sort his legs out himself when not under saddle. But it’s still worth considering these factors as there is obviously still a problem for him that isn’t exclusive to being ridden.

It’s better to aim for prevention rather than treatment. But there’s a few things to try if you’re still at a loss. You could talk to the farrier about leaving more over-hang of hoof at the toe of the shoe on the hind feet (if he is indeed shod). This might not necessarily prevent the over-reaching but reduce the damage and act as a buffer when he does. Hoof wall is softer than horseshoe and should cause less damage if it’s rounded off smoothly.

Trying different types of over-reach boot might be worth a try too. There’s some options – a regular over-reach boot and also a sausage boot which fits over the pastern and can prevent the horse knocking himself.

If and when you exhaust all options, it may be that the rubbing of a boot is the lesser of the two evils when compared to the injury from over-reaching.

David Hankin Dip.WCF

This question and answer first appeared in NZ Horse & Pony magazine, January 2012

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Gregory’s Textbook of Farriery – sample chapter

Posted on March 30, 2012 by

Here’s another sample from Gregory’s Textbook of Farriery. This is from chapter 43, “Lameness”

Gregory’s Textbook of Farriery chapter sample

The book is available worldwide from www.farrier-shop.com

This sample is reproduced with thanks to Chris Gregory. The contents are copyright.

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Gregory’s Textbook of Farriery

Posted on March 29, 2012 by

Great news, we have Gregory’s Textbook of Farriery back in stock

Read a snippet from the dissection chapter if you haven’t already got the book:
Gregory’s Textbook of Farriery sample

This book has fast become the must-have textbook for farriers, apprentices and anybody with an interest in hoof care.

We can ship Gregory’s Textbook of Farriery anywhere in the world

Sample pages are kindly reproduced with thanks to Chris Gregory – the contents are copyright and must not be reproduced in any form without the consent of the copyright holder.

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Naughty for the farrier

Posted on March 25, 2012 by

Q. My young mare is naughty with her back feet. I’ve had a number of farriers who all seem to come once then disappear into thin air when I call them for the second time. I’d like to find a farrier who is willing to teach her how to stand still so the shoeing is not such an ordeal but none seem to have the patience. Am I expecting too much? Please help! Tara via Email.

A. Sorry to hear you’re having trouble with getting your mare shod. From what you’ve told me, it may help for you to do some work on the youngster yourself before asking the farrier to come in and shoe her. Whilst a certain amount of the learning process for your horse will come from a patient and understanding farrier during those initial shoeings, much of the groundwork should be done by the owner/handler well in advance.

Most farriers will agree that it is their job to shoe and/or trim the horse and your job as owner to train it accordingly. My advice is that you could consider spending the time and effort on the horse now and only ask the farrier to visit once the horse is trained and well handled enough so that picking up the hooves and all that is involved during the shoeing process is second nature and the horse understands what is expected from her. When this is the case, it can be surprising how straight forward and uneventful those initial shoeings can be.

There’s lots you can do to prepare your horse ready for the farrier (and save yourself the ordeal of having to find a different farrier each visit!) Having a second pair of hands is a good start and ideally, somebody who can play the role of the farrier during the education process. Introducing new people to the horse and swapping roles may also be helpful – it’s all part of the learning. Usually, having one person holding (and reassuring) the horse whilst the other person does the work on the horse is the best approach. Feel free to enjoy the education process yourself. Dressing up like a farrier and telling bad jokes might be fun.

Going through some of the routines that farriers do and introducing these slowly is recommended. These include picking up the feet one by one, holding them up for a few minutes at a time, extending the hind feet rearwards and taking all four feet forwards. Also, gentle tapping with a small hammer on the hooves will get the horse used to some of the things they might experience when the real farrier turns up.

Having the right people to help you may save a lot of heartache too.

The key to success is repetition and making the learning process stress-free for the horse. I recommend spending short amounts of time to start with then building up after a few weeks depending on how things are going.

Once you’ve put the work in, finding a farrier who is patient and has the time to work with you and the horse is important too of course. Locating the right person (and keeping them) should be a lot easier if you can present a relatively well educated horse at their first visit. The farrier will then be able to put the finishing touches to the education with the end result of a horse who is a pleasure to work on.
Good luck.

David Hankin Dip.WCF

This question and answer first appeared in NZ Horse & Pony magazine, September 2009

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What tools do I need to remove a horseshoe?

Posted on March 24, 2012 by

Q: My horse doesn’t actually lose his shoes often, but he frequently twists them so they are partially away from his feet. When this happens, should I try and remove the whole shoe or wait for the farrier to come? I am worried he might damage his foot from the poking-out nails. And if I try to remove the shoe, can you tell me what kind of tool(s) I need, where to get them, and a basic technique? I am a new horse owner.

Nicola, Drury

A: Thanks for your question Nicola. It can be quite frustrating when a shoes gets twisted on the hoof. There is always a risk when this happens that this scenario can cause injury.

For example, the twisted shoe can end up pressing on sensitive structures (over the frog, seat of corn, sole etc) or the nails can end up sticking in the hoof. There’s always a risk too that the twisted shoe can come into contact with opposing limbs and cause injury.

If the shoe has come away from the hoof and/or twisted then it’s a sensible approach in a first aid situation to try and remove the offending shoe providing you have the correct skills and tools necessary to do it safely.

It’s a good idea for every horse owner to have the skills necessary to remove a shoe in an emergency. If you ask your own farrier in advance, he might find the time to show you and give you a hands-on demo!

Having the correct tools to remove a shoe helps but there have been some ingenious improvisations in times of need (at shows, on treks and so on).

Useful tools ideally include:

  • A tool to lift or cut the nail clenches such as a buffer. Using a rasp to remove the clenches will do if you’re stuck
  • A hammer to hit the buffer with
  • A tool to lever the shoe away from the hoof (shoe pullers/pincers ideally)

Most of these tools are widely available from farrier supplies, online or many local saddleries.

Good luck – you may gain an increased sense of respect for your farrier when you realise how physical just removing a shoe can be!

David Hankin Dip.WCF

This question and answer first appeared in NZ Horse & Pony magazine May 2010

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A different angle for farrier training

Posted on March 19, 2012 by

I’ve been thinking about the training of apprentices and how the financials work (or don’t work).

The cost to the apprentice is the investment of a number of years, usually on modest wages and some hard physical graft to get themselves to a reasonable ability and understanding to be safe to be let out under their own steam.

The cost to the master/employer is time and energy spent training, the cost of materials, consumables and of course wages.

Traditionally, an apprentice agrees to a certain period, works for the master and in return receives the training, experience and a modest wage.

I don’t think it’s unreasonable for me to suggest there can sometimes be tension between master and apprentice and one (or both) feel short changed from this deal. The apprentice feels he is working like a slave making the boss lots of money and getting only a little bit of training in return. The boss meanwhile can feel like he’s spending heaps of time and money training the apprentice, passing on their knowledge and then paying them a wage each week on top.

One of the problems I see is that the working/training balance isn’t often clearly defined in advance. The arrangement is so often, “you work for me and I’ll train you” and lacking boundaries.

In running a business, I’ve always tried to avoid the barter system (you trim my pony and I’ll pay you with some meat from the farm for example). Aside from the questionable tax implications, I’ve found that one party sometimes gets a better deal than the other (or at least thinks they do) and an ongoing barter deal can be problematic when one or the other party wants out. For example, not only does the farrier lose a trimming job, he also loses his supply of meat!

I see the traditional apprenticeship training system as not too much different as a barter deal – albeit a little more complex.

So why not split it up? And put a value on each half? This would give flexibility, freedom and in the tough financial climate, also open up the option of training to be a farrier to more people from all backgrounds.

Split the job into two parts – training and working.

The apprentice wants to learn. For this, there is a dollar value based on what it is worth to the apprentice and also how the master values his time and knowledge. Most likely an hourly rate would be agreed for one-on-one training with the boss. Plus perhaps the cost of materials if any. This time could be in the forge, with horses or in the classroom.

Separately, an hourly rate could be agreed for time when the apprentice is working for the boss under horses etc. During this time, there would be little or no expectation for training – just instruction on what the boss wants to get the job done.

The cost of training by the boss would usually be higher than the cost of labour from the apprentice. The rates could be open to review annually to reflect the usefulness of the apprentice as he gains skills.

These two parts of the relationship should be kept completely separately when it comes to the financial aspect. In fact, the trainee could pay for the training but not necessarily work for the boss. Similarly, he could work for the boss but not take much (or any) training if their personal circumstances dictated that. The apprentice could (if agreed) also work part time for other farriers or take a highly paid part time job for a few hours a week to fund their training.

If the apprentice decides he knows it all after two years, at least the boss feels he has had his training and input covered.

It’s also a good way for a trainee to balance and finance their education and if done correctly avoid those feelings of being short changed. It’s a flexible approach which can be structured to suit your own scenario.

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Horse is standing under himself

Posted on March 17, 2012 by

Q: Hi David. I have noticed that my horse is standing under himself with his front legs, very noticeably since I changed farrier about eight months ago. He also seems to stumble more. The main difference that I can see in the way he is being shod/trimmed is that the feet are being set back a lot further. Could this be a contributing factor?
Lucy, Auckland

A: Hi Lucy. Changing the style of shoeing may have had an effect on how your horse is standing and also performing. If your horse is standing under himself more then this is probably contributing to his stumbling too.

Altering the toe and/or heel height can have an impact on how the horse stands and performs. For example, leaving more heel on a foot will encourage a horse to stand with the foot slightly further back under the body than a foot with lowered heels. Altering heel height can therefore either improve posture or make it worse.

If the foot is further back on the ground at rest then this will have affect how the horse uses energy to move the limb and foot forwards to get off the ground. The change to the timing and energy can cause the horse to stumble (and sometimes other problems too).

The toe height and angle are directly related to that of the heel so altering the toe can have similar although opposing results on this problem – for example, increasing length/angle at the toe can cause the horse to stand slightly forwards.

The placement of shoes will also impact on the scenario and this might be relevant to your horse. Even if the heel/toe length are set and the horse stands underneath himself suitably without shoes, fitting the shoes back underneath the toe will have a similar impact as having more heel on the foot. Similarly, extending the shoes at the heel can have a similar effect as lowering the heels.

In most cases, the horse should stand with the front feet underneath so the cannon bones are perpendicular to the ground.  A deviation from this can exacerbate numerous problems including stumbling.

Balancing the hooves with a suitable length/angle at the toe and heel and then the appropriate placement of the shoes should encourage the horse to stand up correctly and improve the movement. Setting shoes underneath the toe is a common practice and can be very useful for some horses but overall balance – including the placement of shoes should always be a priority.

I recommend you discuss this with your farrier, I expect if you bring it to his attention, he’ll be able to make some improvement to the stumbling problem and posture of the horse.

David Hankin Dip.WCF

this question and answer first appeared in NZ Horse & Pony magazine May 2011

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Gibbins farrier chaps video

Posted on March 16, 2012 by

Here’s a Youtube video showing the manufacturing process for Gibbins farrier chaps.

Uploaded by Stromsholm Gibbins farrier chaps are made in the UK and available at farrier-shop.com

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